A MUST SEE: This is a must see church, Don writes in his story from Mid-Norway, june 2019. Its size rivaling St. Paul's cathedral in London. Like St.Pauls Cathedral, Nidarosdomen, The Nidaros Cathedral, is the coronation site for the King and Queen of Norway.
Travel to Norway in june 2019
Chapter 1
Erin and I are on a self-imposed mission to search the wonderful tourist attractions available for those in the family wanting to visit Norway during next year's family reunion.
Nidelven: The River Nidelven runs trough Trondheim city, and here are Don, Erin and Mona on the Gamle Bybro (The Old Bridge).
Trondheim has been a wonderful experience probably because we have such an excellent host and tour guide showing us the community. Svein Helge Falstad. Last night daughter Mona's husband Trygve treated us to a local Norwegian specialty called Sodd. Served in mid-Norway, this hearty soup/stew is a traditional favorite at various events and often expected for a meal. The recipe can vary in each district of mid-Norway but it's basic ingredients are boiled potatoes, diced carrots, covered with a broth made of beef and lamb meat balls. It was a delicious meal.
Fighting the usual jet lag, Erin and I were exposed to the many wonderful small farms by Svein Helge, some of which have become entrepreneurs through on site sales. One farm even selling Auquivit, that oft favored aperitif so appreciated following a lutefisk dinner! Trondheim, on a latitude a bit north of Edmonton, is Norway's largest agricultural district. Dairies, beef farms, fields of potatoes, barley, wheat, and various vegetable crops are hidden amongst the rolling hills and forests. The tapestry of farms dotting the lush green landscape visible from the air as we were about to land at the airport was stunning, a Shangri La.
Fighting the usual jet lag, Erin and I were exposed to the many wonderful small farms by Svein Helge, some of which have become entrepreneurs through on site sales. One farm even selling Auquivit, that oft favored aperitif so appreciated following a lutefisk dinner! Trondheim, on a latitude a bit north of Edmonton, is Norway's largest agricultural district. Dairies, beef farms, fields of potatoes, barley, wheat, and various vegetable crops are hidden amongst the rolling hills and forests. The tapestry of farms dotting the lush green landscape visible from the air as we were about to land at the airport was stunning, a Shangri La.
La Sagne: Svein Helges daughter Gøril (Goeril) serves La Sagne the first evening Erin and Done stayed in Svein Helge's kondo.
Svein Helge's condo faces the fjord and offers a view of the community dock where he keeps a boat and of the city of Levanger beyond. I'm very much reminded of Uncle John Erickson's condo over looking the bay in Vancouver as I sit and have my morning coffee. Just outside the living room facing the water is a large glass enclosed deck where we usually enjoy our evening meal. A few yards to the south is the former family home now occupied by Mona, Trygve, and young son Lars Eilert.
We feel very much at home here, the weather even cooperating with an occasional Pacific Northwest type of rain greeting us each morning. This part of Norway typically has abundant rain to "green" the forests, crops and pastures. By mid-morning the sun was out and we enjoyed a wonderful day visiting a few farms and trendy communities.
We feel very much at home here, the weather even cooperating with an occasional Pacific Northwest type of rain greeting us each morning. This part of Norway typically has abundant rain to "green" the forests, crops and pastures. By mid-morning the sun was out and we enjoyed a wonderful day visiting a few farms and trendy communities.
On the deck: Erin and Don Moe on the glass enclosed deck where they enjoyed evening meal. Here with small gifts from Mona Pedersen Falstad, Svein Helge's oldest daughter.
Last night after our meal of Sodd, Svein Helge and Mona took us to the Falstad War Museum. This large building, built in 1919 housed boys whose parents were either criminals or alcoholics. During WWII, it was converted into a prisoner of war camp by the Germans. Local Jews and certain Norwegians were housed here along with captured Russians, Poles, Slavs and other ethnic enemies to the Germans. After the war, in a round-a-bout turn of events, on May 8, 1945, the prisoners were let out and the guards became the prisoners and some remained prisoners for 5 years alongside many of the Norwegians who collaborated with the Germans. A satisfying event I am sure for the many who suffered here.
A couple miles beyond the institution is a memorial and primitive cemetery where during the war many Norwegians, Poles, and Slavs were marched and forced to dig their own graves and assassinated on the spot. Many of the Russians were sent north to construct the railroad to Bodø (Bodoe) and Kirkenes which was near the Russian border. A large number Russians died during this forced labor and those who survived and returned to the Soviet Union were put in prisons and eventually assassinated by the ruthless Joseph Stalin for having become POW's.
A couple miles beyond the institution is a memorial and primitive cemetery where during the war many Norwegians, Poles, and Slavs were marched and forced to dig their own graves and assassinated on the spot. Many of the Russians were sent north to construct the railroad to Bodø (Bodoe) and Kirkenes which was near the Russian border. A large number Russians died during this forced labor and those who survived and returned to the Soviet Union were put in prisons and eventually assassinated by the ruthless Joseph Stalin for having become POW's.
During WWII, The Falstad special school building was converted into a prisoner of war camp by the Germans. Local Jews and certain Norwegians were housed here along with captured Russians, Poles, Slavs and other ethnic enemies to the Germans.
After being utilized as a prison, this building once again housed the children of incapable parents, this time including girls. As the country recovered from war, better methods to care for these children were instituted and the building sat until the community began the process of making it a museum and center for human rights. The center is also a hotel and people are now welcome to stay overnight as did Evelyn Laws, daughter Angela and grand daughter Sidney. These somewhat Spartan but comfortable rooms with bath would be an excellent option for family members as your tour guide is a short 2 miles away!
Close by in the Trondheimsfjord, one of two largest twin German battleships, the Tirpitz, was anchored in such a manner that it would be difficult for allied planes to attack. Three sorties were sent from a base in England to destroy this ship. All came from the base where Uncle Lloyd Erickson worked as a technician and all sorties failed to sink the ship. Many Allied planes were lost in this attempt. The Tirpitz remained in Trondheimsfjord for a month and was finally sunk up north near Tromsø (Tromsoe).
Many German troops were saved by a sympathetic Norwegian community. Such are the human contradictions of war.
Close by in the Trondheimsfjord, one of two largest twin German battleships, the Tirpitz, was anchored in such a manner that it would be difficult for allied planes to attack. Three sorties were sent from a base in England to destroy this ship. All came from the base where Uncle Lloyd Erickson worked as a technician and all sorties failed to sink the ship. Many Allied planes were lost in this attempt. The Tirpitz remained in Trondheimsfjord for a month and was finally sunk up north near Tromsø (Tromsoe).
Many German troops were saved by a sympathetic Norwegian community. Such are the human contradictions of war.
July 1030: The famous Viking King, Olav Haraldsson ( also called Olaf the Stout as he was a large man), was killed in The Battle of Stiklestad near Trondheim in july 1030. Here's Don and Erin visiting the Battle Museum at Stiklestad.
From 950 to 1150 Trondheim was the center of Viking rule. Vikings have often been depicted as ruthless villains who pillaged many countries from England to the Mediteranean. (Hey, I'm sure concerned fathers and mothers looked on and maybe said, "boys will be boys" back a thousand years ago too). In actuality the Vikings were well organized and their early governing laws have led to Norway being the worlds longest surviving Democracy.
The famous Viking King, Olav Haraldsson ( also called Olaf the Stout as he was a large man) was killed in The Battle of Stiklestad near Trondheim in july 1030. He was introducing Christianity to this area. We toured the church that was built on this site and a Viking museum close by. His body was transferred to Trondheim, he was granted sainthood by the Catholic Church, and the largest cathedral in Norway was built over his gravesite. This is a must see church, its size rivaling St. Paul's cathedral in London. Like St.Pauls Cathedral, Nidarosdomen is the coronation site for the King and Queen of Norway.
The famous Viking King, Olav Haraldsson ( also called Olaf the Stout as he was a large man) was killed in The Battle of Stiklestad near Trondheim in july 1030. He was introducing Christianity to this area. We toured the church that was built on this site and a Viking museum close by. His body was transferred to Trondheim, he was granted sainthood by the Catholic Church, and the largest cathedral in Norway was built over his gravesite. This is a must see church, its size rivaling St. Paul's cathedral in London. Like St.Pauls Cathedral, Nidarosdomen is the coronation site for the King and Queen of Norway.
Entreprenour farmers: Erin and I were exposed to the many wonderful small farms by Svein Helge, some of which have become entrepreneurs through on site sales. One farm even selling Auquivit, that oft favored aperitif so appreciated following a lutefisk dinner!
Lutheranism eventually became the "law of the land" when a very convincing evangelist swept through Norway by the name of Olav Trygvasson. His brief sermons, "you will be Lutherans or we will chop your head off", motivated many to change their religion.
Don.
Don.
Travel to Norway in june 2019
Chapter 2
Ekne, June 22nd, the shortest night. As Erin and I sit here having our morning coffee at 3:00 am, all I can say is "They could have fooled us!" If there was a short night last night we must have missed it. The sun must have dipped down for just a few minutes and just like that, it's dawn.
Looking out the window at the water and the countryside, my thoughts drift off toward our family heritage. Small Viking farms dotting the landscape. Smoke drifting upwards from log houses. The smell of lutefisk emanating from large boiling pots. Viking long boats anchored in the calm harbor. Who in our family could "measure" up to the leadership qualities of Olaf the Stout........just a passing thought.
Looking out the window at the water and the countryside, my thoughts drift off toward our family heritage. Small Viking farms dotting the landscape. Smoke drifting upwards from log houses. The smell of lutefisk emanating from large boiling pots. Viking long boats anchored in the calm harbor. Who in our family could "measure" up to the leadership qualities of Olaf the Stout........just a passing thought.
If you want to search 'Fluevåg', use 'Fluevaagen' and if you want to search 'Honningsvåg', use 'honningsvaagen vestkapp' (Cause there is a Honningsvåg up north too, and that has nothing to do with our family.)
Last night Svein Helge and I looked at the map of Norway and considered the many possibilities for those traveling to the family reunion in Honningsvag. One consideration all should take into account is, give yourself a couple days to adjust for "jet lag" before you attend the actual reunion. We find ourselves having a lot of trouble finding normal sleep patterns.
The train ride between Oslo and Trondheim is a good option for those wanting a way to relax and see the countryside. Erin had a little trouble relaxing as she was affected by motion sickness until a lady near by provided an antihistamine.
The train ride between Oslo and Trondheim is a good option for those wanting a way to relax and see the countryside. Erin had a little trouble relaxing as she was affected by motion sickness until a lady near by provided an antihistamine.
| Railway lines in Norway |
All along the train route, small farms cling to the hillside. A few miles, high above the lush valleys, snow still covers the rocky summits. A stream and a highway with a large number of bicyclists follows the same route as the train. Young people with backpacks get on and off the train in many of the communities we stop at, suggesting this route is popular with hikers and bikers and might be an option for those young people seeking an adventure when coming to the reunion. The 6 to 7 hr. ride on this particular route was under $150.00 per person and reservations could not be made more than 2 months ahead of our actual trip.
Railway station in Vinstra. Typical local train station in Norway. Photo: Vy
The laid back and relaxing part of our trip quickly came to an end as we got off the train in Oslo. This isn't to suggest that one should avoid Oslo and its multi ethnic and vibrant city life with shopping, museums, parks, and quaint restaurants and coffee shops. One should be prepared for the same prices found in similar cosmopolitan cities around the globe.
We took a taxi to our hotel and met our friends Peter and Jean. That evening we found a trendy restaurant with outside seating and heat lamps in case the evening became chilly. A couple lighting up cigarettes reminded us that we were in a country with different laws and when ordering drinks, Peter, our designated driver took this into account. Norway has very strict laws concerning alcohol when it comes to driving.
We took a taxi to our hotel and met our friends Peter and Jean. That evening we found a trendy restaurant with outside seating and heat lamps in case the evening became chilly. A couple lighting up cigarettes reminded us that we were in a country with different laws and when ordering drinks, Peter, our designated driver took this into account. Norway has very strict laws concerning alcohol when it comes to driving.
SODD: Sodd is a typical meal in Mid-Norway. Very popular.
50 years ago, brother Jerry and I visited Norway and stayed a couple nights in Tonsberg, an hour from Oslo, with mom's uncle Julius Honningsvag and cousin Karl Fredrik and wife Kari. There were a bunch of little kids running around including Tor and now we were going to be spending a night with him and his wife Hilde.
We decided to meet on the docks of the waterfront town. Tor said we were easy to spot as the four of us looked like an obvious bunch of American tourists. Tonsberg is a beautiful seaside town with dockside restaurants. A couple of authentically reproduced Viking long boats were tied up along the dock and we took a number of pictures there.
We decided to meet on the docks of the waterfront town. Tor said we were easy to spot as the four of us looked like an obvious bunch of American tourists. Tonsberg is a beautiful seaside town with dockside restaurants. A couple of authentically reproduced Viking long boats were tied up along the dock and we took a number of pictures there.
Tor and Hilde Honningsvåg (Honningsvaag)
When previously contacting Tor, I "unashamedly" mentioned that Peter and I together owned a small 30 ft. sailboat, knowing that Tor might consider treating us to a short sailing adventure on the fjord in his 46 ft. Bavarian sloop. My plan worked.
What a great afternoon we had as we meandered amongst the islands reminiscent of the San Juan's in Washington state. Peter, later commenting, "This has been the best part of his trip". Many of the boats in the fjord were decked with tree branches, ready to take part in the festivities associated with what is called the Midsommer Eve, which is always on June 23rd. Tonight, boats would be moving through the fjord and campfires would be found all along the shoreline.
What a great afternoon we had as we meandered amongst the islands reminiscent of the San Juan's in Washington state. Peter, later commenting, "This has been the best part of his trip". Many of the boats in the fjord were decked with tree branches, ready to take part in the festivities associated with what is called the Midsommer Eve, which is always on June 23rd. Tonight, boats would be moving through the fjord and campfires would be found all along the shoreline.
Long Boats: Viking long boats in Tønsberg (Tonsberg).
Our adventure was followed by an excellent seafood dinner including shrimp, salt water crayfish, crab legs and stuffed crab shells. It was a grand evening and so far our trip has been a show place for Norwegian hospitality.
Don.
Don.
Travel to Norway in june 2019
Chapter 3
PLANES,TRAINS, AND AUTOMOBILES
The remainder of our trip in Scandinavia will be by car with our friends from Mount Vernon, WA who coincidentally happen to be traveling in Europe to purchase a Volvo in Sweden. Peter and Jean are life long friends of ours from Mount Vernon.
Peter's father was our pastor at Salem Lutheran Church. For those unaware, Volvo will provide air transportation to and from Europe and 2 weeks of insurance to anyone wanting to purchase a Volvo in Sweden. At the end of your vacation they will ship the Volvo to the USA/Canada?, and it is considered a used vehicle when entering the country. (tax break) This would probably be our #1 premium gold star way to tour Norway and Scandinavia. And look at the souvenir you get to bring home!
Peter's father was our pastor at Salem Lutheran Church. For those unaware, Volvo will provide air transportation to and from Europe and 2 weeks of insurance to anyone wanting to purchase a Volvo in Sweden. At the end of your vacation they will ship the Volvo to the USA/Canada?, and it is considered a used vehicle when entering the country. (tax break) This would probably be our #1 premium gold star way to tour Norway and Scandinavia. And look at the souvenir you get to bring home!
Changing of the guard in Stockholm at the Royal Palace.
Renting a car in Europe seemed just as easy as renting in the USA, as we arranged for a car online for Rome. Some countries require an international driver's license (takes 10 minutes at any AAA store). Some countries even have an upper age limit. I was surprised by the number of motorhomes and trailers in Norway and I would guess one could arrange to rent these and take advantage of the many campsites.
Svein Helge mentioned there is a fast boat along with the Hurtigruten Line which serves the coast of Norway. A train ride from Oslo to Bergen and a fast boat would bring you close to Honningsvag. The Hurtigruten Line, which could be picked up at many of the ports along the way, would of course be the "cats meow" and someday Erin and I hope to take this line to view the fjords. I believe Svein Helge will provide more detailed options.
Svein Helge mentioned there is a fast boat along with the Hurtigruten Line which serves the coast of Norway. A train ride from Oslo to Bergen and a fast boat would bring you close to Honningsvag. The Hurtigruten Line, which could be picked up at many of the ports along the way, would of course be the "cats meow" and someday Erin and I hope to take this line to view the fjords. I believe Svein Helge will provide more detailed options.
View of Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus garden from castle in Uppsala
We stayed one night in Karlstad and 3 nights in Uppsala. Both cities that we found much more relaxing than the hectic pace of Stockholm. We visited the large historic Uppsala Cathedral where Peter's brother Paul, a former bishop of the Lutheran Synod in Oregon, once delivered a lesson during a church service. Nearby is Uppsala University and the usual cafes and bars that surround universities.
Stockholm is scattered over seven islands and connected by boats and bridges. The 1970's and 80's band ABBA is from Sweden and we enjoyed touring their museum. Having recently watched a local performance of the musical Mama Mia, we were particularly interested in the section showing original artifacts. On the same island near the Abba museum were the Viking museum, and the Vasa museum.
Stockholm is scattered over seven islands and connected by boats and bridges. The 1970's and 80's band ABBA is from Sweden and we enjoyed touring their museum. Having recently watched a local performance of the musical Mama Mia, we were particularly interested in the section showing original artifacts. On the same island near the Abba museum were the Viking museum, and the Vasa museum.
From Tønsberg to Oslo by train, flight to Stocholm and visit at Uppsala, and then to Faro in Portugal.
The Vasa was a Swedish war ship, one of the largest in the world at the time (1628), that sunk on it's maiden voyage when it was launched and immediately overcome by a large wave. The boat remained submerged until 1961 when it was raised and restored. (maybe this was the event that led to the Norwegians being the ship builders in Scandinavia and Sweden the car builders).
Uppsala Cathedral
Our next stop is Portugal. Peter and Jean are on their way to Finland in Jean's new Volvo. I've always told Erin that going to Portugal and having anchovy soup was on my "bucket list". Maybe it's the salt that sounds so appealing and my fondness of anchovy and onion pizza.
I thought we were close to a source of this delicacy when last night we walked by an underground parking garage and there was a very distinct "fishy" smell emanating from its depths. The next day on a boat tour of Faro harbor, our guide informed us the garbage is swept below ground and picked up daily and thus the smell. Hmmm. I'm still looking for that soup ...... although guardedly.
I thought we were close to a source of this delicacy when last night we walked by an underground parking garage and there was a very distinct "fishy" smell emanating from its depths. The next day on a boat tour of Faro harbor, our guide informed us the garbage is swept below ground and picked up daily and thus the smell. Hmmm. I'm still looking for that soup ...... although guardedly.
Not soup, but finally got my Poruguese anchovies!
After arriving in Faro, Portugal for a two night visit, we immediately left the airport baggage area to look for a cab. Not knowing a word of Portuguese, as soon as we got in the car I said, "English"? comfortably knowing that everybody knows at least some English. The taxi driver shook his head and immediately retorted in a questioning manner, "No......Chinese?"
What! I thought. He did not appear to be Asian. I looked him in the eye as best I could while he was driving and he was not "pulling my leg" either, or he was very good at bluffing and having a good time of it. What kind of interesting life had this guy led before he became a taxi driver in Faro, Portugal?
What! I thought. He did not appear to be Asian. I looked him in the eye as best I could while he was driving and he was not "pulling my leg" either, or he was very good at bluffing and having a good time of it. What kind of interesting life had this guy led before he became a taxi driver in Faro, Portugal?